David and Barry McCaul

Both David and Barry trained in Europe and they told me that they were inspired by the atelier traditions of Germany, Denmark and Belgium; which they now aspire to recreate in London. In their opinion the UK jewellery industry tends to compartmentalise the design and craft processes.

Following the European model of the designer-maker, David and Barry have built a studio that brings the design, the physical making and display of their engagement rings in-house. This gives all elements equal importance and creates a symbiosis that results in uniquely stunning masterpieces.

Much of their work is hammer forged from gold or platinum bar, but they also hand carved wax blocks based on their own sketches, enabling them to use intuition to dictate the final ring and to make decisions based on the tactile quality of their materials. This close involvement of every step in the making of an engagement ring facilitates the artistic license that guarantees the individual and unique character of each piece.

F was very excited when David started to talk about some of his ring commissions with unusual coloured and shaped stones. While most engagement ring designers will tell clients that stones such as black opal, emerald, paraiba tourmaline, and mandarin garnet are difficult stones to use in this type of commission, David McCaul relishes the challenge and creates some stunning rings with dazzling colours and shapes.

Whether the McCauls are sourcing their own stones that are sublimely beautiful or are working with a family gem supplied by the client, David demonstrates the prowess of a magician by setting them in a way that maximises the mesmerizing swirls and shifting colour tones without compromising the security of the stone.

David rejects the usual practice of gluing the more fragile opal stones to the setting and deploys a breath-taking skill to set each stone in the metal so that is protected in an aesthetically designed shelter that complements the gem’s natural beauty.