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The Uniquely Shaped Pear Engagement Ring

Feb. 17 2014
If you are considering a different stone shape, a pear engagement ring can be both beautiful and unique looking.

F was politely listening to me complaining the other day (sure he was!), as I frequently do, about my hands. Firstly, they are always cold and secondly, I feel that, although they are small, my fingers look disproportionally ‘squatty’.

Ok, so we all have our hang-ups. He made the brilliant suggestion that perhaps I start doing finger-yoga stretches. As I rolled my eyes at him, I suggested that perhaps there was a type of ring that might create an elongating effect on my hands without having to resort to yoga. A slightly more plausible idea, don’t you think? Thus, I discovered the pear engagement ring.

lizcpear6.jpg by Katrina Br*?#*!@nd, used under a Creative Commons License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0/legalcode)

The pear cut has an elongating effect on the hands and fingers

Consulting the Expert

I knew exactly where I would have to go to get a comprehensive crash course on pear engagement rings – the designer Harriet Kelsall. A friend of mine recently worked with Harriet, who designed the most exquisite, bespoke pear engagement ring for her that I simply could not take my eyes off of.

Since Harriet Kelsall is still on my list of designers to profile, I did some of my own research before I approached her. It appears that a pear-shaped cut could be applied to just about any gemstone of my choice and would create an elegant elongating effect on my finger. Perfect!

However, there are definitely some technical factors involved in choosing the right pear engagement ring that I had not been aware of.

Napoleon’s choice

After browsing samples of both solitaire and multi-stone pear engagement rings, I was becoming smitten as each one was more beautiful than the last. I then discovered my favourite. The famous pear engagement ring that Napoleon gave to Josephine in 1776 was simply divine, featuring two pear shaped stones, one diamond and one blue sapphire, set side-by-side but pointing in opposite directions. The design, known as a ‘moi-et-toi’, seemed to exude the romantic sentiment I am sure Napoleon wished to convey.

A Technical Challenge

After seeing that, I was pretty well sold on the idea that a pear engagement ring was the one for me. F, in his typically stoic way, said it was ‘very nice’, but I saw his interest really piqued when I started to explain the specific science and intricacies behind achieving this cut.

Yellow Pear Diamond and Rose Gold Ring by David and Barry McCaul

Yellow Pear Diamond and Rose Gold Ring by David and Barry McCaul

A pear cut is usually 58 to 72 facets that offer dazzling sparkle. However, the real skill lies in achieving absolute symmetry for the shape, which is unquestionably necessary for a pear engagement ring. The tapered point must line up with the curved apex, while the shoulders and wings (the sides to you and me) should form a uniformed curve with no straight edges.

The craftsmanship, time and effort involved in creating this shape is well worth it!

Finally, it is a tip from designers in the know that it is quite important to have a six-pronged setting to support and protect a pear engagement ring. This wasn’t a problem for me, but F seemed a little disappointed as he felt this might limit us to a solitaire style only.

Many Possibilities

Not so, apparently! I found examples of pear engagement rings with a pear-shaped centre gem, surrounded by dazzling round-cut white diamonds. My favourite was a ring with a solitaire, pear-shaped emerald, my birthstone, with diamonds set in a pave setting around the band.

It is clear to me that the beauty of a bespoke engagement ring is that the imagination is one’s only limitation!

Designers of uniquely shaped engagement rings

Jessica PooleLondon
Mirri DamerCornwall
Serena FoxSurrey
Catherine MannheimLondon
Esther EyreLondon